RDA vs DBA Slotted Brake Rotors

[Alvis]

Hi all,

I am looking to upgrade my stock brake rotors to a street performance slotted rotor, but I'm confused as to the product/quality difference between the RDA (Rotors & Drums Australia) and DBA (Disk Brakes Australia) options.

For a pair of RDA front slotted rotors you can pick them up for $200 odd dollars at JDM Yard (http://www.jdmyard.com/catalog09/rda-brakes/)

BUT

if you go to the DBA website they are charging $220 per rotor! Ie $440 for both fronts and more than double the price of the RDAs (http://www.dbadirect.com.au/vehicles/honda/civic/ek-3-door#)

Am I missing something - why are the DBA rotors so much more expensive than RDA?

[lukits01]

DBA rotors are much better quality than RDAs
RDA doesn't take abuse that well, though still perfectly fine for street use

[Alvis]

For double the price, you would hope the DBAs are a better rotor - with all respect, how do you know they are better, do you know people who use them?

I am also thinking of only upgrading the fronts and leaving the rear standard - any opinions? I would also be looking at getting micro mesh brake lines and upgraded pads...

[lukits01]

cause Ive personally cracked 3 RDA rotors on the track while the DBA has handled my abuse beautifully

[DLO01]

Yep, as said. You get what you pay for. Dba much better quality. If your using them just for the street, Rda will prol be ok, taking you don't use a hard aggressive pad.

[simonnowis]

fronts make the biggest diff. just upgrade fronts with decent pads and decent tyres all round. i heard braided brake lines get spongy, best to ask someone whos experienced it.

[Tarquin]

I did dba crossed drilled and slotted on the front, standard rears and bendix advance pads all round on my ek1 sedan as a bit of an upgrade and noticed a definite improvement in braking, i'd spend the extra money and go with dba. The ventilation system they hav on them, kangaroo paw or something has a patent on it last time i was looking at them, supposed to work well

[Alvis]

Thanks for all the feedback, it's great to hear personal experiences. And you've convinced me DBA is the way to go.

I might just do the fronts with slotted rotors (not a fan of cross drilled - too many stories about cracking near the drilled holes in the rotor) and something like a Bendix Advance brake pads all round (as suggested by Tarquin) should improve everyday stopping performance. I have some good Michelin Preceda Pilots all round too (I think people also over look how important a good tyre is in braking performance) so might give this setup a go before ordering the braided lines ...

And if I find the time - powdercoat my brake calipers a nice gold :-D

[Tarquin]

Yeah I was a bit worried bout the rotors, i'd heard about them cracking under quick changes in temp but i wasnt going to track the car and cross drilled rotors are sex. I threw on some falken 452's at the time, performed well. good luck with it

[FLICK]

I've cracked 2 rdas after one track day! Never use them again. Most rotors will crack if you don't cool them down properly after doing hotlaps around the track. If your tracking it ducting is recommended and a cool down lap is also recommended. They crack when it's cooling down. Just look after them whatever brand they are but rda is rubbish. Mind you Jdmyard have tracked there rdas and have no issues. They must be doing something right.

[bennjamin]

please dont bother with SLOTTED or cross drilled (!?)....just get high quality SOLID/VENTED discs such as DBA 4000s etc.
Also , when replacing brakes please replace the FRONT and REAR pads to the same pad type.

[Alvis]

Yeh, I've read a few stories on mulitple forums about cracking rotors - but this is not to say that slotted rotors can't also crack, this is an interesting article below about the DBA 4000 Series and the cracked rotor.

And yes, it seems a lot has to do with temperature dispersion and the heating up and cooling down of the rotor - while it's good to cool it down after a few hot laps, it should also go without saying you also let the rotors warm up before stomping on them from 160km/h lol. And as FLICK says the article makes important mention of air ducting on the correct place of the rotor as well (centre)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Cracking-Dba-Rotors-t186532.html

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=301910

Cracked DBA4000 Series slotted rotor - manufacturing negligence or driver negligence?

http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/2932/crackeddba2a.jpg
By civica (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/civica) at 2010-04-28

[FLICK]

Slotted rotors can definately crack. I had a pair of STOPTECH 2 PIECE rotors that set me back 800 bucks. It cracked on me after 1 track day. You see with K- Series cars its more likely to crack on the drivers side than the left as there is more weight on the driver side. It was clearly a manufacturer fault in that instance due to the fact it was cracking around the bolts that hold the hat to the rotor. 5 little hairline cracks. See what can happen when your doing a flying lap, what can happen the session your on might get red flag therefore you will be required to pull into the pits missing out on your cool down lap. In that case most experience people circle the pit area for a while before coming to a stop. Ducting is the way to go if your serious but if it for daily driving rda or whatever will be just fine. Once you go circuit things get a bit more complicated. I've had more issues with my brake system than any other component on my car. I bit the bullet and went with a ap racing brake kit and ducting system. I went cheap but then you end up spending more so go with the best and you'll save.

[anjin]

Part of cooling the brakes down occurs after you stop - heat remains in the rotor area covered by the pads and the rest continues to cool. You can get cracking on the edge between the two areas. So park on the gears and not the handbrake, and roll the car to change the areas under the pads every minute or so.

[aaronng]

Yeh, I've read a few stories on mulitple forums about cracking rotors - but this is not to say that slotted rotors can't also crack, this is an interesting article below about the DBA 4000 Series and the cracked rotor.

And yes, it seems a lot has to do with temperature dispersion and the heating up and cooling down of the rotor - while it's good to cool it down after a few hot laps, it should also go without saying you also let the rotors warm up before stomping on them from 160km/h lol. And as FLICK says the article makes important mention of air ducting on the correct place of the rotor as well (centre)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Cracking-Dba-Rotors-t186532.html

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=301910

Cracked DBA4000 Series slotted rotor - manufacturing negligence or driver negligence?

[IMG]http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/2932/crackeddba2a.jpg[IMG]
By civica (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/civica) at 2010-04-28

Those guys brake from very high speeds with a heavy car and many also run super aggressive racing pads, which generate a lot of heat and maintain braking capacity even over 800 ºC. As a result, the rotor overheats and cracks. If they want to use that sort of pads, they need proper heat treated racing rotors.

[bennjamin]

Yeh, I've read a few stories on mulitple forums about cracking rotors - but this is not to say that slotted rotors can't also crack, this is an interesting article below about the DBA 4000 Series and the cracked rotor.

And yes, it seems a lot has to do with temperature dispersion and the heating up and cooling down of the rotor - while it's good to cool it down after a few hot laps, it should also go without saying you also let the rotors warm up before stomping on them from 160km/h lol. And as FLICK says the article makes important mention of air ducting on the correct place of the rotor as well (centre)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Cracking-Dba-Rotors-t186532.html

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=301910

Cracked DBA4000 Series slotted rotor - manufacturing negligence or driver negligence?

http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/2932/crackeddba2a.jpg
By civica (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/civica) at 2010-04-28

Not sure if you refer to my plug of DBA 4000 - but to correct you , a DBA4000 refers to a material used not hte actual design itslef. Thus , the DBA 4000 comes as solid and slotted and also cross drilled. I refer to blanks ! ( solid )

Any disc is apparently more prone to cracking due to the imperfections in the cast material opened up , which fail when heat cycled.

[Alvis]

Ah, thanks for clearing up bennjamin - yes, DBA4000 can be solid, slotted or slotted and cross drilled.

Thanks again for all your personal feedback, some good food for thought in there when choosing brake rotors.

I guess the conclusion is the best rotor depends on what your application is > If you're going to go on track days often then invest in a good quality AP, Endless, Spoon, Mugen etc brake upgrade kit, but if it's for street and maybe a little 'spirited' driving then a good quality rotor (ie DBA4000), a good set of pads front + rear (ensuring you clean the shims where the new pads sit so pads don't run on the rotor and potentially crack them) and some good tyres should do you fine :-)

Cheers again lads

[Alvis]

OH, and almost forgot - I'll get some pics up to show you guys when I've got the new setup working :-D

[FLICK]

Goodluck. For street driving you can't go wrong with Dba!!! Compliment them with ferodo ds2500's and you will be laughing. There brake pads btw incase you weren't sure. Cheers

[EG5]

Ran RDA for a while now with aggresive pads on our EGK24A , EGK20A , 1.8 MX5 etc . Never had any issue , We did proper cooling down lap and never pulled a hand brake after 1 session.
Tried other expensive disc too , they will last longer as they are proper disc for race used.
RDA is bang for bucks.

[EK1.6LCIV]

DBA all the way, like comparing apples to oranges, very very great r&d dept

my 4000s are still in tip top condition (although my advice before install paint the hats with vht high temp as they will rust like every other rotor lol)

only bought them as Honda wanted 750 for new EJ8 rotors (claimed some bs about the manufacturing using the same methods used when making NSX rotors or some shit on vti models, lol)

and DBA wanted 450 new, did take a few days to get them made but fit up like oem and works well with oem pads against all the advice from people that it would be a bad call, been 20,000ks guys and they still are full of legal life

[DLO01]

Such a great thread, thanks to all that have contributed thus far. Good info, pros/cons, experience, good discussion, in what, 2 pages? Never given out so much rep in a thread! I know this is off topic, but just has to be said! :thumbsup:

[Cooker]

Every one was raving on about how good RDA's are for the price and heaps of people with Hondas was using em at the track, both in W.A and NSW.
So I stopped using my cheap but not as cheap Proteck discs, bought a brand new set of RDA's, cracked them after 7 laps. Threw em in the bin, bought the DBA slotted one piece discs and they have coped fine.
I'm not surprised people crack RDA's under extreme driving or track use. When you buy the RDA's it actually states on them NOT FOR OFFROAD USE. If you fit them on a track car and they crack don't stare at disbelief, take the disc of and hit yourself in the head with it, because it clearly states you shouldn't use it for circuit use so what do you expect!!!!

[zco]

anyone ever crack some endless or project mu's ?

[lukits01]

anyone ever crack some endless or project mu's ?

I've cracked Endless Straight-6 Rotors before, mind you they were 2nd hand when I bought them
and at least they didn't fail spectacularly like RDAs do, they just develop surface cracks that became more obvious the more you abuse them.
I thought I might as well replace them before I push them too far.
A bit disappointed tbh considering the brand name and price.

on another note, here's some pics of my failed RDAs from the past
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/8183/img1208p.jpg
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/7752/img1207.jpg

[Cooker]

anyone ever crack some endless or project mu's ?

You can crack any rotor buddy if you brake hard enough for long enough, even carbon ceramic discs.
Its when they crack after a very short time, as in my case after 7 laps, that you think hmmmm not using these again.

[6thgear]

dba's > rda's

and thumbs up for slotted

[Alvis]

What a fantastic thread! I would have never thought you'd crack the Endless Straight 6 rotors tho... wow... I'd be disappointed too lol :-)

I rang my local Pedders today and they can source the DBA 4000 Street Slotted rotors for $220 per rotor and about 1-2 weeks for delivery, but I guess what I'm wondering now is about brake pads. My OEM pads still have plenty of wear front and rear (just over 51,000kms on the clock) - so my question is:

Should I stick with the OEM pads with the new rotors? Or get some sports/performance pads? EK1.6LCIV says his are working well with existing OEM pads, but Tarquin changed all his pads and has had good performance too...?

I just want to make sure I'm not buying new pads if I don't need to...

[lukits01]

always use new pads with new rotors


What a fantastic thread! I would have never thought you'd crack the Endless Straight 6 rotors tho... wow... I'd be disappointed too lol :-)

I rang my local Pedders today and they can source the DBA 4000 Street Slotted rotors for $220 per rotor and about 1-2 weeks for delivery, but I guess what I'm wondering now is about brake pads. My OEM pads still have plenty of wear front and rear (just over 51,000kms on the clock) - so my question is:

Should I stick with the OEM pads with the new rotors? Or get some sports/performance pads? EK1.6LCIV says his are working well with existing OEM pads, but Tarquin changed all his pads and has had good performance too...?

I just want to make sure I'm not buying new pads if I don't need to...

[Mugen Civic]

I've been using RDA slotted disc bundled with TRW/Lucas pads for awhile now and its survived two track days. But then my car is powered by a D16 so not a power house.
Haven't cracked or warped yet, must do cool down laps thou, just treat them correctly.
Just my input on the RDA slotted disc. You get what you pay for thou.
I'm pretty sure they are just OEM replacement disc with slots.

[Mugen Civic]

always use new pads with new rotors

I've heard to break in new disc with old pads...

[blabla]

Oem disks are shit had mine turn blue. I have given my rda's the same treatment and heeps more no cracks I've got a coupe as well with some 17's wrapped in proxy 4's

[liberx]

Oem disks are shit had mine turn blue. I have given my rda's the same treatment and heeps more no cracks I've got a coupe as well with some 17's wrapped in proxy 4's

On the contrary, I've never had an issue with Honda OEM. Tried Slotted EBC a few years back, and went back to OEM because of constant warping (of EBC).

Get top notch pads first (Ferodo DS2500 for track), high quality fluid (Motul RBF600) before spending on rotors. Of course, if you're after bling, that's another story...

[Mez]

The company i work for actually does some of the machining on DBA rotors (mainly for 60's mustangs) but they have very high quality control and no corners are cut, basically you get what you pay for.

[Alvis]

Agreed. Yes, I bleed brakes every 5-10,000 kms and use Castrol Dot 4.

However, I was worried about using Bendix Advance brake pads on OEM disks? I'm worried the compound of the pads may be too hard for what OEM disks were designed for from the factory (hence why I thought it might be good to upgrade rotors at same time)?

[aaronng]

Oem disks are shit had mine turn blue. I have given my rda's the same treatment and heeps more no cracks I've got a coupe as well with some 17's wrapped in proxy 4's

Blue means you went over the temperature that the rotors are meant to do.

[Cooker]

Um I think it means that the metal got very very hot. Its not a deformation of the disc or that they exceeded there max temp etc. When metal gets to certain temp then it turns blue. Everyone that tracks their car should have a nice blue ring on their discs, its normal. You even get slicks turning blue on the edges where they have got hot.

[lukits01]

I agree with Cooker, I think its normal discolouration, they run hotter because they dont have directional vanes to pump air through them like DBAs do. but in fact the OEM rotors were one of the longest lasting rotors I've ever used.
too bad Honda want a fortune for them.

[Cooker]

Yep, I run OEM rear discs on my EG and I havn't had to change them, ever!
Rumour has it that SPOON discs are just OEM discs with grooves, made by the same manufacturer.

[aaronng]

I agree with Cooker, I think its normal discolouration, they run hotter because they dont have directional vanes to pump air through them like DBAs do. but in fact the OEM rotors were one of the longest lasting rotors I've ever used.
too bad Honda want a fortune for them.

For the Euro, the OEM discs are cheaper than DBA. However, we found that the metal is susceptible to brake pad deposition, which is why many Euro owners complain about brake shuddering. Even on my original rotors, I could see actual raised imprints left behind by my brake pads. Now I am using DBA and I haven't seen the imprints appear.

[kccord]

I use RDA slotted on my CD5, track and street and have a blue ring after a spirited drive. It also develops, very minor surface cracks (3mm lengths and not deep) and occasionally gives me a shudder on light braking. However, once the pads and rotors are at heat they do a great job when you stomp on it.

[VTECMACHINE]

DBA > RDA by far!

For the price of DBA, i'd rather go for Dixcel Rotors.

[EG5]

Here is my 282mm RDA front slotted disc on my EGK24A
Been on 3 x trackday at Wakefield with Project MU HC+ pads , Im about to push it to the 4th track day next week.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/4605848784_5d498d24f6_o.jpg

[mocchi]

Here is my 282mm RDA front slotted disc on my EGK24A
Been on 3 x trackday at Wakefield with Project MU HC+ pads , Im about to push it to the 4th track day next week.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/4605848784_5d498d24f6_o.jpg

um.. that is very clean tie rod ends.
and the rotor looks nice, wears nice.
my slotted rda has small pits on rotor face :/

[Cooker]

Wish my RDA's had looked like that after 3 track days. I'd be happy if they looked like that after 1 track day instead of being full of tiny cracks or sometimes they decide to skip the tiny crack faze and just go straight to having one massive crack.
Can I buy your calipers? haha

[fat_85_civic]

abit off topic, but are NSX calipers heavier then ITR calipers?

[EG5]

abit off topic, but are NSX calipers heavier then ITR calipers?

I never actually put them on a scale against ITR calipers

[hiepy]

so i would assume, getting slotted rotors means you can't machine the rotors once there's a lip??

unlike solid ones?? (meaning they last longer?)

applies for cross-drilled too ?

thanks.

[fat_85_civic]

you can machine slotted rotors, the slots dont affect it at all.

[WA-EG]

Here is my 282mm RDA front slotted disc on my EGK24A
Been on 3 x trackday at Wakefield with Project MU HC+ pads , Im about to push it to the 4th track day next week.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/4605848784_5d498d24f6_o.jpg

Have heard RDA's don't track too well but looking at a friends civic the other day he couldn't speak more highly of the RDA's for track for quality vs cost....

On another note, how hard/expensive is the NSX brake swap???

[Cooker]

abit off topic, but are NSX calipers heavier then ITR calipers?

Hell no. ITR is cast steel, NSX is an aluminum alloy.
NSX is heaps lighter and dissipates heat quicker.

[TheSaint]

i had RDA gold fronts on my teg and used to get them glowing hot with no trouble with greenstuff pads .. they wer slotted and dimpled

but if i was gona get some more it would be DBA or Project Mju

[BlitZ]

i was reading that RDA and DBA are both from china now days.
and blanks for db4000 and rda ... and protek come from similar or if not the same factories.


btw... personal experience..

i use to track my em1... 1:12.9 (not great but decent for oem setup) at wakefield... i ran protek blank with zero problems

[EG9]

For the last few years I've been using EBC 'turbo groove' rotors on the front with EBC Red pads, no problems so far. Rears are OEM rotors with EBC Green pads.

The EBC rotors look exactly the same as RDA gold but made in UK and apparently a different (better?) material composition although I have heard some EBC rotors are just repackaged RDAs, and not made in UK at all.

[DBASteve]

i was reading that RDA and DBA are both from china now days.
and blanks for db4000 and rda ... and protek come from similar or if not the same factories.

Gday ppl,

I just wanted to chime in an clear up some misinformation about our DBA 4000 & 5000 series rotors.

Whilst we do have an import program for some Street Series rotors, our DBA 4000 & 5000 series products are still cast and machined here in Silverwater, NSW Australia.

I don't know 100% about where our competitors source their rotors from but I can assure you that if you get a DBA 4000 or 5000 Series rotor it is Australian made.

Cheers,

DBASteve
dbasteve@dba.com.au

[Alvis]

Thanks for confirming for us Steve, nice work

[gdbasketcase]

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/DBA-Slotted-Disc-Rotor-DBA035SL.aspx?pid=106739#details

At supercheap, the DBA rotors only go for about $130 each....

im looking at upgrading my brakes all round,, just for street use, but still want better-than-stock braking

[EG5]

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/DBA-Slotted-Disc-Rotor-DBA035SL.aspx?pid=106739#details

At supercheap, the DBA rotors only go for about $130 each....

im looking at upgrading my brakes all round,, just for street use, but still want better-than-stock braking

If that part no is correct , we can do it @ the same price too since we are the official DBA dealer .
Most of the stuff that we have in stock are in 4000 series.

[nugget]

If that part no is correct , we can do it @ the same price too since we are the official DBA dealer .
Most of the stuff that we have in stock are in 4000 series.

What is the part number that you sell for DBA brakes to suit ek4?

[mathew[fn2]]

just get normal blank rotors if your driving it on the street. it will save u heaps of money. no need for slotted rotors for the street. u can get a set of 4 brembo rotors for like 250 from usa

[Alvis]

Can anyone recommend a US website who sell Brembo rotors and ship to Oz? (for $100 each 30% off atm at Supercheap I'm tempted to go DBA slotted)...

And does anyone have any advice on 'alloy' brake rotors - such as Power Slot?

http://www.nipponpower.com/product.phtml?p=92&i=1

http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/Article/43005/power_slot_introduces_power_alloy_enhanced_brake_r otor.aspx


AND has anyone ever used Brembo or Hawk HPS brake pads (some good reviews on HPS)?

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/results.jsp?autoMake=Honda&autoModel=Civic+EX+Sedan&autoYear=1998&autoModClar=

[Alvis]

Just reviving this thread - have you guys heard of QFM pads from GSL RallySport in QLD? Thinking of getting the HP-X pads as they seem to outperform the project mu NS type...

Seems like a good bang for your buck performance pad - $79 front + $79 rear (free shipping):
http://gslrallysport.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9

Here are some of the braking co-efficients. The QFM HP-X ones seem to perform very well under cold and hot conditions with very similar co-efficients compared to the Project mu NS type.

Could only find an average for greenstuff which seems high at 0.55 (good once they heat up, but not sure about rotor wear and cold performance ie more street driving rather than continued hard stops...


QFM HP-X (up to 550 deg C)
Cold 0.41
Hot 0.42

QFM A1RM
Cold 0.40
Hot 0.48

Project mu NS Type
Cold 0.37
Hot 0.40

Project mu B Spec
Cold 0.32
Hot 0.45

EBC Greenstufff
Average 0.55

[aaronng]

Since the cold coefficients are high, those pads probably have a higher proportion of abrasive material in it. Still, it won't be as bad as EBC green and red stuff, which wear rotors quicker than other pads.

I use Project Mu NR pads.

[TheSaint]

i now have RDA slotted with project mu type NS pads
with cusco MBC stopper/brace
amazing setup

[Alvis]

thanks guys, I just have trouble justifying the price of the project mus are they really more than twice as good? I don't mind paying for quality but I don't know... just seems a bit much compared to a pad that has the same if not better stopping qualities:

PMU NS front's $180
PMU NS rear's $170
TOTAL = $350

QFM HP-X front's $79
QFM HP-X rear's $79
TOTAL = $158

[TheSaint]

LOL $350 is so cheap for a set of pads

generic pads for cars like supra and skyline are like $600 a set

[aaronng]

thanks guys, I just have trouble justifying the price of the project mus are they really more than twice as good? I don't mind paying for quality but I don't know... just seems a bit much compared to a pad that has the same if not better stopping qualities:

PMU NS front's $180
PMU NS rear's $170
TOTAL = $350

QFM HP-X front's $79
QFM HP-X rear's $79
TOTAL = $158
Why don't you try the QFM ones and give us a review. For street use, they will surely be better than OEM anyway, so it will be an upgrade. Like you said, the Project Mu's are 200% the price, but most probably nowhere near 200% as good!

[Alvis]

For the money (plus given I only have a d series shhh lol) I think they're definitely worth a go and review :)

This thread just gets better and better!

One last question - do you guys see any point in replacing the rubber brake lines to a micro mesh brake line given they're still the original lines from the factory? Do any of you guys run micro mesh lines and is it worth it?

[TheSaint]

One last question - do you guys see any point in replacing the rubber brake lines to a micro mesh brake line given they're still the original lines from the factory? Do any of you guys run micro mesh lines and is it worth it?

i would also be interested in this - mine are still stock as well

[TypeS]

Is it for street use or track?

If street, I wouldn't bother with the Mu's unless you like doing touge runs.

Same with the Braided lines, they're pointless on the street with a much shorter lifespan.
Rubber is a much better material in protecting against the elements than SS.

Sure braided lines come teflon coated, with corrosion resistance and all that jazz...but truth of the matter is, they require regular scrutiny for daily driving.
Just search Google for all of the horror stories.

If you do go down the braided route, make sure they're ADR approved and you have the consent of your insurance company.

[TheSaint]

i think type-NS mus are good for street use - anything above that would be over kill

[Alvis]

Thanks TypeS, I had no idea about that on the mesh lines, definitely going to keep the stock rubber lines +1 rep :)

Agree with Saint - Type NS/QFM HP-X is more than plenty for the street. I think the HP-X are more value for money, so I might give them a go and write up a review.

Thanks guys, appreciate all the help :thumbsup:

[Stevil]

Just put a set of DBA 4000 slotted rotors on my the Civic FD1 last week. Did 2 track days with stock pads and rotors and they were badly grooved after only 12K. Will install some Project Mu's next week.

Pricing was only $310 for the 2 front DBA rotors ! good value I reckon and an Aussie Company to boot. If you visit the Factory in Silverwater you can see the rotors being made.