View Full Version : Loosening my timing belt to change cams, how???
locote
12-11-2005, 04:16 PM
im having trouble finding the timing belt tensioner on my b18,
could any one post up a diagram that shows were al the bolts are.
how many plastic covers have to come off???
iamhappy46
12-11-2005, 11:00 PM
need to pull of crankshaft pulley and all the plastic timing case covers, to expose your entire timing belt. The tensioner looks like a bearing with a spring and bolt attached to it.
If you get the covers off, you should not need a picture.
SKREMN
12-11-2005, 11:35 PM
you want have to take off the crankshaft pully remove the top plastic covers and just loosen the tensioner idler pully
Flanderz
13-11-2005, 12:31 PM
make sure u have rotated ur engineto TDC tho
bennjamin
13-11-2005, 12:40 PM
you want have to take off the crankshaft pully remove the top plastic covers and just loosen the tensioner idler pully
in a few words you only need to take off the cam-cover , rotate the engine with a 17mmsocket+extension+breaker bar to cyl.1 TDC.Loosen the tensioner and then take off the camgears and slide the timing belt to the side...install in opposite fashion .
Refer to the this DIY thread for more info - Camshaft seal change (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30999)
ECU-MAN
13-11-2005, 04:47 PM
B18 may have a 19mm crank bolt head if its a VTiR or Type R.
if you good ( and lucky ) you dont even need to loosen the tentioner to take the belt off and put it back on.
if your belt is tight, then you will have to loosen the tentioner, no way around this.
you can also loosen the tentioner without removing any covers, the tentioner has a acess plug over the cover, if you remove this access cover, you will see the 14mm nut head. loosen it at go from there.
I would just strip it all down and take the whole belt off, change pullys and put it all back together again with a new belt. may be less mucking around in the long run, prob only take 1 to 2 hours max as well and it will be a better tention on the belt as you can check the bottom parts for slack.
locote
13-11-2005, 08:00 PM
just spent 4 hours working on it and got no were that 14mm nut is so fkn tight its not funny!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
went through al the stepd only to find that dam nut is realy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! tight it rounded off 3 socket bits and too late to go buy new 1s.
i give up if i cant install the cams i aint gona pay no 1 to do it its just not worth it,
i cant do it i just have to get the tensioner bolt of wich i couldnt, so thats it.
if i keep the money i would spend on paying some 1 to put cams in get a PnP on the head, and tune it, and sell the cams. thats the equivalent of the price of b18c1, half of a b18 or 1 b16a with work done to it.
ECU-MAN
13-11-2005, 08:21 PM
dont quit.
how tight is the belt.
you can get nasty with the tentioner bolt, use vice grips once the bolt is rounded and a socket or spanner no longer grips it. then get a new bolt from Honda to replace it.
if your belt isnt tight , you can slide the belt off, just do this from both cam pullys a bit at a time,
and fit the belt in the same manner, take a bit of time and skill but you can do it.
locote
13-11-2005, 08:47 PM
if i slide it off and then cant put it on ill realy get fuming hahaha.
i was gona do it my self but since that am bolt got in the way, that just gives me the excuse to go buy a vtec motor lol!!
ill loosen that bolt before the engine goes in so when i wanna upgrade cams on that motor its not so dam anoying.
hehe.
locote
13-11-2005, 08:59 PM
hey would a b16a 2.1lt stroker be more powerful in Hp and Torque than a b18cR????
im thinking of getting a b16a for 2800 fitted and rebuilding it with a crower stroker kit and some crower cams.
would it be a ALLMOTOR beast?????
Engine Bore Stroke Total Displacement
B16A 87 89 2.12L
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