Engine Longevity

[ian]

My Civic Vtir coupe is 4 years old this year and is mechanically stock, running great. I'm wondering which part would need the first, second etc. replacement? (and the same goes for any other hondas).

I'm asking this, coz it would be the one i'd address first in the process of modifying my car.

In the same token, I'm looking for performance upgrades that keep the longevity of the engine (is there such a thing?).

Your views and advise would be greatly appreciated.

[2ds]

mechanically i think the first thing you will have to replace (excepting tires, breaks etc) will probably be your timing belt at 120,000kms

the engine in your vtir coupe is a touch mofo, get it serviced redularly and it should see 300,000kms easy ( i service every 5000kms but if you drive nicely and use good oil 10,000 should be okay)

-2ds

[Setanta]

Timing belt is usually the first big replacement. Honda says 80,000, I do mine every 60,000 for peace of mind (120,000????? You're tempting fate there!!!!!).

I do regular oil changes, Oil every 5000kms and filter every 10,000. I use the big genuine filters on my B16A not the small genuine. I use full synthetic oil although the Honda FEO is good too. Never use non-genuine parts, they are inferior.

Currently I have 270,000km on the gen1 B16A in my SiR. No smoke, still has the stock 160ps, no oil use except at persistant 8000rpm usage ;) The car regularly does interstate rns between Sydney and Melbourne.

Mods: reusable airfilter insert (custom made by Finer Filter or Jamex), rest stock. I may do exhaust but that will be it. Stock = longevity - that's my experience after owning and modding Hondas for 19 years. Start modding excessively and you'll have a good short term car (200K km+) but not one that will really go the distance.

[weezer]

My B16A2 had 316,000kms before i took it out. It was still running fine before i took it out. Just service it regularly, and then you can drive as hard as you like. :D

[type one]

timing belt and distributor at 100K... if you are serious engine mounts and sussy bushings...

if you are pedantic (like me)... then your ignition leads, radiator (at about 100K) and that should have your car nice and new and good as new again...

get the car feeling like its just new out of the showroom... i love that feeling hehehehe

[SIKCVC]

all my sensors blew at 140 :( but i have a **** off rare engine :P

[ian]

thanks SETANTA........ "stock = longevity".........i thought so.

[ian]

thanks fellas!........thanks for all your advise. i've taken it all in.

[2ds]

last time i checked honda said timing belt at 125,000 have to have another look in my log book.

-2ds

[vti-2]

When i bought my DC2 the timing belt had been done at 60,000kms. And that was done at Honda.

[Rufes1]

Never use non-genuine parts, they are inferior.

Pete I strongly disagree with this, especially along the lines of oil fliter, fuel, air and bearings.

I have experienced the quality to be equal you will not notice a difference.

But hey, if you like to spend more for the word honda printed on it go for it :)

[Setanta]

Cut a ryco or other oil filter open and compare it to the guts of a genuine oil filter and you will see a big difference. Fuel filter: likewise - but my car is fuel injected not carb like yours and I won't take any chances. Air-filter - like I said - I use a reusable insert but again, Honda ones for the late hondas are better than the aftermarket paper element. Cost is maybe 1-3 dollars more for most parts. All I know is treat the car right and it will look after you. I don't skimp because in my experience with cars, cutting costs often sacrifices reliability.

Bearings I'll go along with.

Like I said earlier, 170,000 on a hard-driven B16A, I think I might be onto something :D

Then again, as my girlfriend pointed out (while stirring me), I have an '84 Corolla top radiator hose on the SiR at the moment as cutting one down was the only option when the original died when you are in country Victoria :D New genuine SiR one is on the way. ;)

Cheers

[IRI]

What about a type r? If well looked after (serviced every 5000) but driven hard often. Do you think they will stand the test of time?

[Setanta]

Same story - I oil-change my SiR between 5 and 8 thousand kms and change the filter between 10 and 14,000. I rev it out to 8000 a reasonable amount and do regular interstate runs. I can't see the build on a 1st gen B16A being better than on a DC2's B18C.

Treat it nice, let the motor warm up for 60 seconds or so in general (I double that in winter) to get the oil circulating - don't go over 4K on the tach until the motor is warm, change your coolant every 12 months (I do mine twice a year) and always check the seals and hoses to ensure all is good there.

Unless I got lucky and got a motor that goes on forever ;)

[SIKCVC]

how often would you say your rev to 8000 setanta? LIke once or twice a drive?

[SIKCVC]

Oh and as for genuine Honda... :tumbs up: all the way :D If you make friends with the guys at the dealership they will often give you a trade discount. Its well worth it :D

[Setanta]

SIKCVC: Sometimes never, sometimes always, sometimes ... sometimes. you can't generalise it. Revving to 8000 is not really the issue, running the powerband between 5400 and 8200 is as it places stress on the motor. In a straight line run I will peak the motor @ 8000-8200 to drop it on cam @ just over 5400 on the gearshift. Generally the motor is stressed, but I don't do that sort of thing on an interstate run or going up to the shops :D In fact, it won't touch VTEC let alone redline (I like keeping my licence ;) ). On the street, if I want to get to 60km/h or 100km fast (ie merging into fast moving traffic, I'll redline it hard as those are at peak revs in the first 2 gears respectively.

On the track, when I have the time... it will be persistantly pumping up to 8000-8200.

Basically it all depends on the circumstances. BTW - the original owner also ran it on the track in Japan and treated it pretty much the same as I did.

The problem with the ITRs is that a lot of them have been thrashed hard and not serviced regularly - I've seen a lot of them looking tired at under 100,000kms because the owners thought that regular service intervals apply to a weekend track-warrior. By the same token, I know of an DC2 with 150,000+ on it that is a track beast that gets serviced every 3000kms and is running strong.

I'm not saying that servicing is the key - just in my experience it is as I have no other explanation for the kms on my car - my mildly driven GL ED6's motor died at 220,000kms and I know it was treated poorly by previous owners. It's a weird situation when the car that has been driven the hardest is still going strong.

[Jus-10]

I'm with setanta on this one, though I have never had a car long enough to get the amount of kays his civic has.

You have to treat your car with respect, let it warm up properly before you go revving hard and make sure you are changing the oil regularly.

If you are tracking the car, I have heard that the best way to calculate mileage, is that 1km of track racing is equal to 3km of street driving. That is, if you are racing your car, it is a good idea to be changing oil very frequently! I know people that will change the oil straight after an event whether it be track or drags or whatever.

A lot of it comes down to common sense really, and just don't skimp on a few dollors for serving or parts now because those extra dollars could save you a lot in the future.

[SPEEDCORE]

I remember my asian friends interpreting what was on a Civic bible they had... it pretty much said that the B16A if serviced well was good for 300-350k km................. track driven!! :shock:

[SIKCVC]

well theres that guy in melb who was selling his B16a, done HUGE Km's and I hear he was no angel with it :P

[LatinoHatchCrap]

I change my oil/filter every 6000. my plugs every 3000 and my rotor cap every 12000. i warm her up for 2 minutes every morning and dont let the revs go over 3000 until the needle temp sits in the middle.

[type one]

what he said... that's good loving yo.. hahahaha

[ginganggooly]

oil and filter changed every 5000km. Driven HARD -i seriously don't know anyone that pushes their motor harder than i do- on the street and track. always used fully synthetic oils and ryco or cooper oil filters. 186,000kms (bought her with 68k km) now.

the motor uses up about 800ml of oil every 5000km, but there is a slow leak from the sump gasket region. my problems have been confined to less sinister things than internal engine problems... engine mounts, radiator, electronic gremlins etc.
i'd say i was onto a good thing ;)

well, now it's on 220k km. still going strong, time for a new clutch though. :D

[ian]

another thread i shall resurrect.
in relation to what i originally asked.
are there engine mods to specifically strengthen and/or increase engine longevity rather than increase power? or does an engine modification generally aim to increase power (or sometimes decrease it).

[bennjamin]

Ian , mods such as the SPOON or MUGEN lineup can increase efficiency or more so useability - as they are often OEM parts slightly modified or blueprinted.

IMO An engine is a mass of balanced mojo made for its designated targe market/useage and really not much more scope for further changes. You COULD improve various parts as many do , but this would inheritly decrease the lifespan of the engine I would think. ( as in , upsetting the true balance) Im starting to sound like Uncle Roberts long lost whiteboy nephew...

Really Ian - just leave it and take care of her :)