View Full Version : Euro 10k service oil change
Hey - did anyone notice a big performance improvement after the 10,000k Euro service?
I picked my car up yesterday. I had the dealer use my own oil - Castrol Formula R Synthetic 5w30 (not sure if it is full synthetic - retails around $50 or so)... anyway my Euro really hustles now - can't believe how much faster it revs - - very noticeable! Probably 0.5 of a second faster to 100ks - :P
The last oil change was at 1,000km by the dealer using the dealers oil.
This is great! :twisted:
coladuna
06-08-2004, 09:37 PM
probably nothing to do with the oil.
It's most likely that the engine's fully run-in now.
probably nothing to do with the oil.
It's most likely that the engine's fully run-in now.
The oil and filter change is all they did according to the service manual.
If it was just break in wouldn't I have felt the difference before service? The oil change has done something - this feels like a totally different car to me in terms of acceleration.
EuroAccord13
07-08-2004, 12:36 AM
Do you know that the oil recommended by Honda (10-30 rating) is meant to be for the Japanese weather and not the harsh Australian conditions?
CHEERS
Nick
Nick - what oil rating would you use?
Honda dealers in Canada and US use 10-30 as well.
smoknhothonda
07-08-2004, 12:44 PM
Castrol magnatec isnt a bad product, its definately better then the shit most honda dealerships use!!
You will notice that it will idle smoother, pick up better from lower revs and use less fuel.
Magnatec is a semi synthetic oil, which is what is reccomended after changing from a mineral oil.
Next time try castrols 0W/40, it around $65 for 5L at supercheap, then you will notice a huge improvement once again! Dont be worried about the rating, because its a synthetic, it doesnt break down as easy as a mineral oil, hence the low viscosity.
Im using Fuchs Titan GT1 0W20, damn pricey, but one of the best oils on the market in my opinion.
EuroAccord13
07-08-2004, 09:05 PM
I use Shell Helix 15W-50 for the Euro..
If I were as fussy as I was last time, I used different grades of oil for Summer and Winter..
Our weather doesn't get cold enough to be like Japan to require 10W but our weather goes up way higher than the Japanese Summer, thus a higher viscosity is better..
I am actually looking to change to Agip or Motul oil.. haven't tried them before, anyone got comments on these oils?
CHEERS
Nick
Psyklops
07-08-2004, 09:11 PM
I use Motul Turbolite 10W-40 in my EG Vti and it is pretty good...I noticed a diff when I changed the oil that was in there to the Motul after I bought the car...costs about $45 for 5L...great stuff for the price I reckon :)
EuroSip
07-08-2004, 10:19 PM
I should be getting my car serviced for 10k soon...so what is probably the best oil to increase performance....where i'm willing to even spend several hundred dollars...
I should be getting my car serviced for 10k soon...so what is probably the best oil to increase performance....where i'm willing to even spend several hundred dollars...
Spend several hundred dollars on oil? You are joking aren't you? :lol: Get some Mobil 1 (say $60) and put the money left over towards a K&N Typoon cold air intake.
EuroSip
07-08-2004, 10:26 PM
I don't have much knowledge on the price of oils and stuff for cars....so no idea....I've got tein suspensions on the car and that's it....
I don't have much knowledge on the price of oils and stuff for cars....so no idea....I've got tein suspensions on the car and that's it....
Woa.. tein (flex?) on the euro? Ok, ok we need to see pics of your Euro dude! :P Also - let us know how it rides, how much it cost, etc. I think the tein coilovers are around $3000+ fitted? Big bucks.
Re the oil - sure you can spend big dollars on oil but a good quality synthetic will be good enough in terms of performance.
EuroAccord13
08-08-2004, 02:17 PM
Back to Topic..
Performance wise.. I don't feel a difference probably that's because I've covered up the foggy cover I cut out to allow air into my CAI due to the wet weather (I have the drycharger, just that I am paranoid that's all LOL)
EuroSip
09-08-2004, 11:14 AM
I don't have much knowledge on the price of oils and stuff for cars....so no idea....I've got tein suspensions on the car and that's it....
Woa.. tein (flex?) on the euro? Ok, ok we need to see pics of your Euro dude! :P Also - let us know how it rides, how much it cost, etc. I think the tein coilovers are around $3000+ fitted? Big bucks.
Re the oil - sure you can spend big dollars on oil but a good quality synthetic will be good enough in terms of performance.
My car just looks like any other grey euros out there except it has the stock bodykit without the boot spoiler...and it's a LOT dirtier....
it was around 3000, but i knew the dude so it didn't cost much for labour...
To be honest with you, the suspensions makes the car better in terms of turning and stuff...but it takes aways the luxury feel of the car...even on softest setting...the car rumbles a little...
Next project is to change the alloys...(since that the factory ones looks like 14's at the back..)
and also change the brakes so it's red... ^.^
How much performance improvement is there with a change of good oil??
Re my oil change at 10,000 - the last change was at 1,000kms.
During that 9000kms travel the car has run in heaps and I am sure the oil was very dirty. I don't know the technical reason - but the fresh oil has freed up horsepower.
Eurosip - whether or not you will see any performance difference will probably depend on how many kms your car has done and when it last had its oil change. If you are talking about the same scenario I was in (ie 10,000kms and last change at 1,000kms) - I am sure you will notice a performance diference by using a decent synthetic oil.
I am not a mechanic but i can feel differences in performance - just like I can feel the performance difference driving my car during cold temperature.
EuroAccord13
09-08-2004, 08:23 PM
Ok.. A VTEC engine needs alot of KMs to realise it's full potential give it alot more kms than other cars :)
When you change the engine oil at 10000kms the oil won't be that black or dirty because the car is still new.. but further down the road, having black engine oil during the oil change is a good sign meaning that the oil is doing it's job in cleaning the engine.
I don't think Euros need full synthetic oil.. my opinion...
Slugoid
10-08-2004, 08:41 PM
I've had my 10,000km service a while back, and I didn't notice much of a difference...
EURO-R
05-10-2004, 05:05 PM
I use Motul Turbolight 10W40 at 1,000km for my Euro. Motul Turbolight designed for high performance engines, Turbolight can increase performance in my opinion. but not sure it is fully synthetic oil.
Pum[Z]
05-10-2004, 05:49 PM
I had my 10,000 km about a month ago and i changed the oil with Mobil 1. Its fully synthetic and the rating is 5w-50... I have been using Mobil 1 in my previous cars so i use it for my euro as well... Couldn't really feel the difference except in gear 1. But i got 19inch alloys which makes the car accelerate much more slower...
U can buy Mobil 1 form Kmart and its the cheapest place especially when they have 10% off storewide sometimes... (It costs nearly $70.00 rrp)
If u change oils make sure u ask the service desk to flush the oil as well so that there is minimum mixture of old oil with new oil... The euro only consumes about 3.5 litres of motor oil with each service...
Type R Positive
05-10-2004, 05:54 PM
yep, but I have wondered, how would you flush out all the old oil??? I know alcohol like metho works. It is good for cleaning out the crap in your oilpans.
i work for honda and i dont know why u wouldnt use honda oil? they have made and desinged it for hondas, oil they use in all vtec engines is 10w 30w and its good stuff.
baboo
06-10-2004, 08:32 AM
I've used several type of oil in my previous car. all are full synthetic
Castrol is shit. - engine doesn't any power where it should.
shell hilex is shit.- the engine feels hard to rev.
Motul 8100 is oK - good type of oil, but oil break down after 5000km...
Motul V300 is good - this is good, smooth and engine easy to rev, but after 5000km the oil breaks down.
ENDLESS is the best. - even after 10000km of hard driving, tracking the car...etc
the oil stayed consistant. engine runs smooth as silk mate~
At the end of the day it's trial and error, you have to find out which type of oil suits your car. But generally more expensive oil is the better it protects the engine.
I'm gonna stay with Honda FEO oil until 10,000km and change to ENDLESS oil...
Type R Positive
06-10-2004, 08:34 AM
You get what you pay for.
baboo
06-10-2004, 08:37 AM
Thats right mate!
But do change the oil filter every time you change the oil. don't listen to the Honda service saying that "oh the oil filter is design to last 20,000km"...my ass
you know how much crap is in the engine at first 1,000km service?
EURO-R
06-10-2004, 05:47 PM
I've used several type of oil in my previous car. all are full synthetic
Castrol is shit. - engine doesn't any power where it should.
shell hilex is shit.- the engine feels hard to rev.
Motul 8100 is oK - good type of oil, but oil break down after 5000km...
Motul V300 is good - this is good, smooth and engine easy to rev, but after 5000km the oil breaks down.
Thats right ! I don't understand why Honda always use Castrol oil for service, i use Motul Turbolight 4100 for my euro, is it suit for my car ?
Type R Positive
06-10-2004, 07:44 PM
Thats right mate!
But do change the oil filter every time you change the oil. don't listen to the Honda service saying that "oh the oil filter is design to last 20,000km"...my ass
you know how much crap is in the engine at first 1,000km service? You won't need to change the filter, but is a really good practice to get in to. I haven't had a good look under the euro, but it will be a pain in the ass to change it out. No biggie, but it will cost ya.
Catcha
07-10-2004, 02:38 AM
Hey everybody just wondering , i see some here just take in there own oil ? how is that possible to keep the honda warranty? if the engine dies and you were using other than honda engine oil then you warranty would not be covered right? as i asked if u could bring my own and they were like NO you will void your warranty if you do......plus after the first service do they go full synthetic ?
Type R Positive
07-10-2004, 08:35 AM
Hey everybody just wondering , i see some here just take in there own oil ? how is that possible to keep the honda warranty? if the engine dies and you were using other than honda engine oil then you warranty would not be covered right? as i asked if u could bring my own and they were like NO you will void your warranty if you do......plus after the first service do they go full synthetic ? read all the posts
REV888
24-06-2005, 09:51 PM
I had my 10K service today changed oiled to 0w-20 GT1 Titan Fuchs.
The car seems liked its gained a few kiliowatts, it just flys and revs so well.
Chris_F
25-06-2005, 12:58 PM
ive noticed lately that my cars revs are rising a lot slower and the engine feels weeker than it normally would even in the colder weather.
next service they'll hopefully change the oil aswell as the filter. Baboo, where can you get endless oil from? I wouldn't mind taking that in for them to use instead?
I had my 10K service today changed oiled to 0w-20 GT1 Titan Fuchs.
The car seems liked its gained a few kiliowatts, it just flys and revs so well.
Hey Rev - how much did the Fuchs oil cost? I have heard great things about that oil. Is it ok to use in a car that recommends 5w30? It is a little thinner when the engine is warm so I want to make sure it still offers good protection.
Thats right mate!
But do change the oil filter every time you change the oil. don't listen to the Honda service saying that "oh the oil filter is design to last 20,000km"...my ass
you know how much crap is in the engine at first 1,000km service?
How much crap exactly?
Ferrarista
25-06-2005, 01:38 PM
Mine actually went slower for the first kms, cause the new car oil is very thin. While normal oil is thicker, so the engine needed to run it through.
aaronng
25-06-2005, 01:40 PM
How much crap exactly?
Enough that my dealer insisted on changing the oil filter at 1000km.
BTW, did you guys watch the E46 assembly video from the lounge? As soon as they put the engine in and assemble everything together, they put the car on dyno-like machine to test the drive train, all the way up to redline.
jamchen
25-06-2005, 03:39 PM
I use Shell Helix 15W-50 for the Euro..
If I were as fussy as I was last time, I used different grades of oil for Summer and Winter..
Our weather doesn't get cold enough to be like Japan to require 10W but our weather goes up way higher than the Japanese Summer, thus a higher viscosity is better..
I am actually looking to change to Agip or Motul oil.. haven't tried them before, anyone got comments on these oils?
CHEERS
Nick
motul 8100 ex-cess 5w-40 full syn and its the oil oil i used apart from what dealers putted for me...
and yes i did feel the difference with the revvings of the car and responses better :D
the downshiftings are better because i can easily downshift from 3rd to 1st when before the oil change with similar speed that was hard to achieve.
just my little 0.02
and apart from engine oil i've got told that everything else should be OEM :thumbsup:
REV888
25-06-2005, 06:33 PM
Hey Rev - how much did the Fuchs oil cost? I have heard great things about that oil. Is it ok to use in a car that recommends 5w30? It is a little thinner when the engine is warm so I want to make sure it still offers good protection.
See my PM :D:D
albii
25-06-2005, 09:44 PM
Enough that my dealer insisted on changing the oil filter at 1000km.
BTW, did you guys watch the E46 assembly video from the lounge? As soon as they put the engine in and assemble everything together, they put the car on dyno-like machine to test the drive train, all the way up to redline.
apparantly with the euro they dyno every engine so that it makes at least 140kw..could explain why euro owners get good power figures with their cars when they're dynoed.
tknova
26-06-2005, 11:37 AM
The reason simply for the power increase that you can feel is just due to the weight of the oil
Castrol formula R 5-30w is a very thin oil and is perfect for the euro in aussi conditions. You will get more power due to the oil ofcource being thinner and thus making it easier for the engine to spin!
And don't worry if you see your oil going black straight away. Some people think it's a bad thing, but it's actually a good thing! If the oil is doing what it's suppost to be doing, protecting your motor. It will ofcource go black.
With all due respect 15-50w oil in a euro is way to heavy! The oil would be thick on start up and take ages for the oil to move around the motor and start lubricating causing major wear on start up.
Magnatec is actually really crap oil. When they say 'semi synthetic' it's only 8% synthetic. Magnatec is great to use to run in a motor.
I recommend running a minerial oil for the first 10,000km's (magnatec) and then after for aussi conditions i'd run 5-30w or 5-40w oil fully synthetic.
That's my 2cents :)
I think I'll try Castrol Forumla-R 5w30 (semi synth) once I feel my engine is properly broken in... 15000-20000km'ish.
The reason simply for the power increase that you can feel is just due to the weight of the oil
Castrol formula R 5-30w is a very thin oil and is perfect for the euro in aussi conditions. You will get more power due to the oil ofcource being thinner and thus making it easier for the engine to spin!
And don't worry if you see your oil going black straight away. Some people think it's a bad thing, but it's actually a good thing! If the oil is doing what it's suppost to be doing, protecting your motor. It will ofcource go black.
With all due respect 15-50w oil in a euro is way to heavy! The oil would be thick on start up and take ages for the oil to move around the motor and start lubricating causing major wear on start up.
Magnatec is actually really crap oil. When they say 'semi synthetic' it's only 8% synthetic. Magnatec is great to use to run in a motor.
I recommend running a minerial oil for the first 10,000km's (magnatec) and then after for aussi conditions i'd run 5-30w or 5-40w oil fully synthetic.
That's my 2cents :)
Guys - today I had my 30,000kms service.
I had Motul 8100 Xcess oil added by the dealer (5w40). It is 100% synthetic. I can say without hesitation that this oil is the best I have tried so far in the Euro (in terms of power). It cost $59.
You can probably find it cheaper - I was stuck for options in Perth.
This is what I have used so far:
Castrol Formula R 5w30 (10,000kms service) - revs fast but I could hear VTEC rattle from time to time. Stopped using this as I hear it is not 100% syn.
Shell Helix Ultra 0w40 (17,500kms service) - doesn't rev fast - car feels like it bogs down.
Castrol Formula R 0w40 (23,000 service) - this is very similar to the 5w30 in terms of performance. No VTEC rattle. Good stuff.
Motul 8100 xcess - (30,000 service) - revs very smooth and fast! Best I have used.
I think I will stick with the Motul from here on - love the way the car revs now.
euro77
27-06-2005, 10:31 PM
Motul made some pretty good oil. I got it for my brake fluid at the moment, dot 5.1. really helps with the braking.
Suntzu
28-06-2005, 12:11 AM
Should I ask for a special type at my 1000km service or best to use recommended?
EuroAccord13
28-06-2005, 12:33 AM
Should I ask for a special type at my 1000km service or best to use recommended?
Your dealer will generally recommend that you use Honda's oil and lubricant but you can purchase your own and have them put it in for you...
baboo
28-06-2005, 10:27 AM
Motul made some pretty good oil. I got it for my brake fluid at the moment, dot 5.1. really helps with the braking.
Err...I've heard reports of Motul braking fluids doesn't really suits Honda cars. Something about it eats away the rubber seals in the brake master cylinder.
This is from Motul Japan, and the distributor here in Australia.
Maybe Motul have put in a new formula to prevent this from happening.
Other than that, they engine oil is fantastic, Motul 300V is a gem!
tknova
28-06-2005, 12:20 PM
Guys - today I had my 30,000kms service.
I had Motul 8100 Xcess oil added by the dealer (5w40). It is 100% synthetic. I can say without hesitation that this oil is the best I have tried so far in the Euro (in terms of power). It cost $59.
You can probably find it cheaper - I was stuck for options in Perth.
This is what I have used so far:
Castrol Formula R 5w30 (10,000kms service) - revs fast but I could hear VTEC rattle from time to time. Stopped using this as I hear it is not 100% syn.
Shell Helix Ultra 0w40 (17,500kms service) - doesn't rev fast - car feels like it bogs down.
Castrol Formula R 0w40 (23,000 service) - this is very similar to the 5w30 in terms of performance. No VTEC rattle. Good stuff.
Motul 8100 xcess - (30,000 service) - revs very smooth and fast! Best I have used.
I think I will stick with the Motul from here on - love the way the car revs now.
I used to run motul 8100 xs 5-40w in my WRX
Very good oil! I'm ganna run it in the euro when she hits around 12,000km's
aaronng
28-06-2005, 01:24 PM
Just called my dealer. They use Castrol Magnatec!!!! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO. Gonna bring in my own oil at the next service.
baboo
28-06-2005, 01:48 PM
Do you guys reckon if you bring your oil to your "friendly Honda dealer", they really putting in the stuff you bringing in?
aaronng
28-06-2005, 02:02 PM
They better. Otherwise they will get into trouble! I'm sure you can feel the difference between their Magnatec and the Mobil 1/Formula R/Motul/Insert syn oil here that they bring to use.
baboo
28-06-2005, 02:12 PM
Well, new oils always feels smooth and revs quicker when compared to well used oils.
I'm just a bit suspicious that the dealer are really doing what they were told to do!
I've heard some cases that they bring the customers oil home with them for their own use.
There are some dodgy dealers out there! Be sure you have a good relationship with your dealer. Get to know the service manager & tech well.
Castrol oil is not Honda FEO oil. Castrol oil suck balls, espeically magnetec.
jamchen
28-06-2005, 03:00 PM
when i hit my service last time and told them to use the motul oil i brought...
when i picked up the car the rep. returned me with left over oil so i think my dealer and doing what they supposed to do... :D very happy with them...
had a warrenty repair done today too... they changed front brake discs
aaronng
28-06-2005, 03:43 PM
Over at the Holden dealer that my gf frequents, they give you the leftover oil as well.
FEO is blended by Caltex to Honda specifications as stipulated on the container.
Well, new oils always feels smooth and revs quicker when compared to well used oils.
I'm just a bit suspicious that the dealer are really doing what they were told to do!
I've heard some cases that they bring the customers oil home with them for their own use.
There are some dodgy dealers out there! Be sure you have a good relationship with your dealer. Get to know the service manager & tech well.
Castrol oil is not Honda FEO oil. Castrol oil suck balls, espeically magnetec.
aaronx88
28-06-2005, 09:58 PM
Hi guys,
How soon can we changed from using mineral oil to synthetic? My Euro will probably hits 4000km only for the 10k service? Should I wait for the 20k service to use those fantastic oil as discussed here? For the 1k service, my dealer puts in Castrol Magnatec in.
Thanks.
Aaron
aaronng
28-06-2005, 11:02 PM
Hi guys,
How soon can we changed from using mineral oil to synthetic? My Euro will probably hits 4000km only for the 10k service? Should I wait for the 20k service to use those fantastic oil as discussed here? For the 1k service, my dealer puts in Castrol Magnatec in.
Hi! Another Aaron here. From the forums, some suggest 20,000km, while US forums suggest 10,000miles (16,000km). Others just put in full synthetic after 10,000km. It's up to you but most recommend at least 10,000km.
VirIIx
29-06-2005, 10:32 AM
My next service is due soon, I'll give the Motul 8100 a shot and see how that goes. The euro feel like it's lost some of it's spirit :)
jamchen
29-06-2005, 11:48 AM
i personally won't go to full syn until 20,000km... in that way i've given the car enough time to break-in :D
yeah motul 8100 5w-40 is really good... give it a try for sure... you will feel the difference!
Chris_F
29-06-2005, 01:29 PM
VirIIx I'm goin to (try) do the same, like you said my euro lost some of its "spirit" aswell... doesnt rev as smoothly or as quickly as before.
Though I'm just expecting the dealer to say "if you don't use our oil we'll void the warranty" :rolleyes:
What have other people done when they take their car in for a service? Just insist? or turn up with the oil and force them to use it? (if in fact they don't take it home and put it in their car haha)
VirIIx
29-06-2005, 02:55 PM
i don't think it'll void warranty - that's ridiculous, especially if they tried to pull that one over you.
It's like saying, we recommend you use such and such petrol and such and such tyres and because you didn't use such and such and changed such and such it's adversely affected the vehicle in such a way it's voided your warranty.
just tell those monkeys to put it in :)
my next service will be 20,000km, prob get it done around the 16/17K km mark.
aaronng
29-06-2005, 03:21 PM
Service manual says Honda won't approve warranty work if the use of non-Honda fluids cause damage. Since the dealer is already using non-Honda fluids in the first place, then I can put in my higher specced engine oil and they have to honour the warranty. To void warranty, the dealer has to report that the use of non-Honda fluids caused the problem. If they don't report, then it is probably assumed it is Honda engine oil. If they do report, then I can tell Honda Australia that this dealer had put in Castrol Magnatec instead of Honda engine oil.
REV888
29-06-2005, 04:27 PM
Not sure if I should get worried.
Rang a couple of dealers to see there feedback on 0w-20 oi &l does not go down to well they think its a bit thin.
But according the the owners handbook 0w-20 is fine :confused: :confused:
tknova
29-06-2005, 05:34 PM
To give you a pretty plain and simple answer
The piston rings should be bed in at around 6,000km's if you have run in the car properly.
10,000km's is not a problem to run fully synthetic!
The first 1000ks is the most critical part of breaking your new motor in.
tknova
29-06-2005, 05:36 PM
0-20w would be a bit to thin for aussie summer climates.
I would run no less than 0-30w and no more than 10-60 in the euro
I think 5-40w oil is perfect for street use. Get's thick enough to protect but stays thin enough to let the motor spin.
If running on the track go for a 50 or 60w top end. Like chrono 300v or penrite 5.
But, for noraml street use and the daily v-tecing i would not pass motul 8100 5-40w.. Used this in my wrx and the motor sung with it.
Can't wait to put the euro on it at 10,000kms
aaronng
22-11-2005, 05:40 PM
Blast from the past!
I just put in Castrol Formula R 0w-40 and the car feels like it revs stronger. But on the downside, engine noise is louder! I compared it to another member's Euro, and mine is louder, even though I am purely stock and he has the icebox. I hope my engine is not dying. If it is, I hope that she dies within the warranty period.
Did anyone experience increased engine noise as well as engine vibration?
Blast from the past!
I just put in Castrol Formula R 0w-40 and the car feels like it revs stronger. But on the downside, engine noise is louder! I compared it to another member's Euro, and mine is louder, even though I am purely stock and he has the icebox. I hope my engine is not dying. If it is, I hope that she dies within the warranty period.
Did anyone experience increased engine noise as well as engine vibration?
So I presume you just had a service? I haven't noticed any difference in engine noise based on oil (I have tried quite a few differnt oils now). More likely this is something else. What about the air box? At the 10k service they would have removed the lid and taken a look at the filter. I would suggest you see whether they replaced the filter properly and screwed everything down correctly. Check the intake tubing, etc. Just a thought.
aaronx88
23-11-2005, 06:30 AM
Does anyone notice that when they start the car in the morning, the engine noise is very loud? Much louder than usual. I'm just not sure if it is connected to the engine oil still being cold.
aaronng
23-11-2005, 10:30 AM
So I presume you just had a service? I haven't noticed any difference in engine noise based on oil (I have tried quite a few differnt oils now). More likely this is something else. What about the air box? At the 10k service they would have removed the lid and taken a look at the filter. I would suggest you see whether they replaced the filter properly and screwed everything down correctly. Check the intake tubing, etc. Just a thought.
That is a damn good suggestion. I'll check it out after this. :thumbsup:
civiceg9
23-11-2005, 11:02 AM
Thinner oils will make engine more noisy but more free flow hence you feel the performance gain. Thicker oils will stick to your engine and make it less noisy. As long as oil can travel freely through your engine it should be fine. Don't get too thick oils as this could damage your engine. 50w is usually not recommanded for general use on a multivalve engine.
Honda Japan actually also have the following oils:
10w-30 (General)
0w-20 (ULEV, Hybrid and cold weather)
5w-30 (General performance)
5w-40 (100% Synthetic for Legend, Type R, S2k and NSX)
As with all JDM, these oils are available only in Honda Japan. Apart from the 10w-30 for all our AUDM Hondas
aaronng
23-11-2005, 12:10 PM
Just checked, my air filter box is properly put together and the screws are tight. I did not open the box however, so I hope that they did not pull the filter out and forget to put it back. I"ll have to get the car into brighter light so that I can open the box up.
aaronng
23-11-2005, 12:10 PM
Does anyone notice that when they start the car in the morning, the engine noise is very loud? Much louder than usual. I'm just not sure if it is connected to the engine oil still being cold.
When you start the car in the morning, the revs are higher because the electronic throttle gives it more throttle. More throttle = louder. :)
aaronng
23-11-2005, 06:47 PM
Ok, my original Honda air filter is still in there. I took out some bird feathers that were on the surface. So the only thing that I can think of is that my engine is dying..... or has a sore throat.
Mr_will
23-11-2005, 06:53 PM
Castrol magnatec isnt a bad product, its definately better then the shit most honda dealerships use!!
You will notice that it will idle smoother, pick up better from lower revs and use less fuel.
Magnatec is a semi synthetic oil, which is what is reccomended after changing from a mineral oil.
Next time try castrols 0W/40, it around $65 for 5L at supercheap, then you will notice a huge improvement once again! Dont be worried about the rating, because its a synthetic, it doesnt break down as easy as a mineral oil, hence the low viscosity.
Im using Fuchs Titan GT1 0W20, damn pricey, but one of the best oils on the market in my opinion.
just something to consider with magnatec...yes its great that supposedly the oil is there right from the start, where it otherwise mightnt be (due to the magnetic properties it supposedly possesses)...but this also means when you change then oil you wont get all of the old shit out of there either...
aaronng
23-11-2005, 07:10 PM
just something to consider with magnatec...yes its great that supposedly the oil is there right from the start, where it otherwise mightnt be (due to the magnetic properties it supposedly possesses)...but this also means when you change then oil you wont get all of the old shit out of there either...
It's not magnetic. Just that the additives like to adhere to metal. But yes, I agree that there will be a film of oil left over when changing oil. :thumbsup:
Mr_will
23-11-2005, 07:12 PM
It's not magnetic. Just that the additives like to adhere to metal. But yes, I agree that there will be a film of oil left over when changing oil. :thumbsup:
what youre saying amounts to it being magnetic, for the purpose of this argument. elements of it stick to metal...its magnetic.
eurotrash
23-11-2005, 07:15 PM
lets not be pedantic :thumbdwn:
Mr_will
23-11-2005, 07:21 PM
lets not be pedantic :thumbdwn:
exactly...
aaronng
23-11-2005, 10:07 PM
what youre saying amounts to it being magnetic, for the purpose of this argument. elements of it stick to metal...its magnetic.
Actually... It's electrostatic. You know, like how rubber balloons like to stick to wool when it is charged? Not magnetic. Being magnetic means it is a ferrous metal. And from the info from Magnatec's site, the esters are positively charged and cling to the negatively charged engine surfaces. If you charged yourself with electrons, magnatec will stick to you too.
If you deep a spoon into normal engine oil and leave it hanging in a enclosed environment. I'm sure it'll still be 'oily' after a few days? That light coat of oil is enough for an engine to start?
aaronng
24-11-2005, 11:26 AM
Yeah, electrostatic forces are quite weak but I think the properties would make that film slightly thicker and stay thick for over 1 day. But I would think that the "10" part of the viscosity rating also plays a big role in Magnatec's cold start capabilities.
Mr_will
24-11-2005, 11:51 AM
Actually... It's electrostatic. You know, like how rubber balloons like to stick to wool when it is charged? Not magnetic. Being magnetic means it is a ferrous metal. And from the info from Magnatec's site, the esters are positively charged and cling to the negatively charged engine surfaces. If you charged yourself with electrons, magnatec will stick to you too.
read carefully..."for the purpose of this argument" - stop being pedantic, it makes absolutely no difference to my argument whether its electrostatic or magnetic.its pretty stupid on the manufacturers part to call it magnatec when its not magnetic, if thats not misleading i dont know what is.
aaronng
24-11-2005, 12:05 PM
It's pretty important not to spread misinformation. If you are complaining of Magnatec's misleading name, then I would have expected you to be the last one to say that it was magnetic. This is a technical forum, and so we should be using the proper terms and not one that serves to give an easy but misleading explanation.
Tobster
24-11-2005, 12:17 PM
its pretty stupid on the manufacturers part to call it magnatec when its not magnetic, if thats not misleading i dont know what is.
It's a brand name -- I would think that it's intended to make the average person think about the way it sticks. They could have called it "gluetec" and it still wouldn't be misleading. If they called it "clowntec", would you think it was made from real clowns?
Unless there is a clear statement made (like "our oil is magnetic" when it isn't), there is no misleading going on in the name (as far as consumer laws go).
Mr_will
24-11-2005, 12:21 PM
It's pretty important not to spread misinformation. If you are complaining of Magnatec's misleading name, then I would have expected you to be the last one to say that it was magnetic. This is a technical forum, and so we should be using the proper terms and not one that serves to give an easy but misleading explanation.
as i have tried to explain to you - whether it is magnetic or electrostatic is completely irrelevant - all that matters is that it sticks to things. my argument was that it could be bad when changing oil because some of the old oil would remain in the engine. that argument did not rely on the distinction between magnetic and electrostatic, it relied on the oil sticking to things. yes, this is a technical forum, but picking apart other peoples arguments when theyre attempting to be helpful is just going to piss them off
viperx
24-11-2005, 12:21 PM
Man i think 10-60 would shit up your engine unless you run enduro in 40 degree heat... or maybe regular country runs?
0-20w would be a bit to thin for aussie summer climates.
I would run no less than 0-30w and no more than 10-60 in the euro
I think 5-40w oil is perfect for street use. Get's thick enough to protect but stays thin enough to let the motor spin.
If running on the track go for a 50 or 60w top end. Like chrono 300v or penrite 5.
But, for noraml street use and the daily v-tecing i would not pass motul 8100 5-40w.. Used this in my wrx and the motor sung with it.
Can't wait to put the euro on it at 10,000kms
viperx
24-11-2005, 12:28 PM
Stop arguing then if that is your view. I was actually interested that it was electrostatic. You contributed, he gave constructive criticism, we got the right answer. The end, unless ego is at stake.
as i have tried to explain to you - whether it is magnetic or electrostatic is completely irrelevant - all that matters is that it sticks to things. my argument was that it could be bad when changing oil because some of the old oil would remain in the engine. that argument did not rely on the distinction between magnetic and electrostatic, it relied on the oil sticking to things. yes, this is a technical forum, but picking apart other peoples arguments when theyre attempting to be helpful is just going to piss them off
aaronng
24-11-2005, 12:45 PM
Mr_will, I have nothing against you. It's just that me being from a chemical eng. background really do HAVE to make the distinction between being magnetic, electrostatic or just being plain sticky in our everyday life/work.
If that means being pedantic to you, then I apologise.
But in terms of chemicals/oils/fuels, I will always be like this. If it is a fault and you feel that my comments are pissing you off, then please ignore what I post. I would rather not have any discussions turn into non-constructive arguments.
Try this oil. Torco SR1 MPZ Synthetic 5w-30. Hard to find in Oz. I bought it in a 20L drum which cost about $190 delivered from the QLD distributor. (About $50 / 5 L). Have run it for 15000km sofar. I changed from mineral oil @ 5K kms. Engine is a little noisier & a tad harsher but this is made up for with great performance. I read a comparison which pitted this oil against other similar Synthetics on the dyno & hence my decision. My 20K change is due & I will swap to Castrol Synth R 0-40 ($60 on special) for the summer heat and to try it out for 5000kms.
Tip: Put in a fuel-system cleanser into your fuel just before you change oil. It washes all the **** out and it lands in your oil ready for a change. Change filter at same time.
BiLL|z0r
24-12-2005, 10:06 AM
I've got my 10K service coming up in a couple weeks (just ticked over 9K 2 days ago). I think I'll try the motul 8100 5-40w oil as long as the dealer doens't give me grief on warranty, otherwise too hard to argue with them.
What has every1's 10K service cost so far as I've heard Honda serving can be expensive?
aaronng
24-12-2005, 05:32 PM
I've got my 10K service coming up in a couple weeks (just ticked over 9K 2 days ago). I think I'll try the motul 8100 5-40w oil as long as the dealer doens't give me grief on warranty, otherwise too hard to argue with them.
What has every1's 10K service cost so far as I've heard Honda serving can be expensive?
Someone has written to Honda Australia regarding the use of oil of other brands and was told that warranty was not affected UNLESS the use of the oil was what contributed to the failure. For my 10,000km service, I brought my own Castrol Formula R 0w-40 and the dealer did the service (and changed oil filter) for $198.
When you book your car in, you must tell them that you are bringing your own oil.
BiLL|z0r
24-12-2005, 07:37 PM
From what I've heard, Honda will say non-OEM oil was the reason for a headlight not working. Still not sure if it's worth the drama later in life as I got this car so I wouldn't have issues with non-oem parts like I did my very modified lancer.
aaronng
24-12-2005, 09:19 PM
Well, someone posted here the reply from Honda Australia, so you won't get your engine oil killing your headlights/wipers/windscreen/boot warranty excuse.
Eurotony
25-12-2005, 07:19 AM
Someone has written to Honda Australia regarding the use of oil of other brands and was told that warranty was not affected UNLESS the use of the oil was what contributed to the failure. For my 10,000km service, I brought my own Castrol Formula R 0w-40 and the dealer did the service (and changed oil filter) for $198.
When you book your car in, you must tell them that you are bringing your own oil.
I have been running Mobil 1 10w - 30 fully synthetic since the first service which I did not have done until 2000km (no loan car available). I contacted both Honda & Mobil & both replied in writting that as long as the recommended grade was used, there would be no issue with warranty. I have now done just under 60k & the engine runs as smooth as ever, with just as much power as ever & no oil consumption at all.
I was surprised when I got written confirmation from Honda, but got it I did.
I supply my own oil at every service & the cost of the service is adjusted accordingly
tanalasta
12-06-2006, 10:15 PM
Hmm... don't most people think 2000km is too soon for a fully synthetic?
It's a pity nobody's done a 1000 car trial with the different type of oils yet. It would be interesting to compare in a controlled environment the performance/lifespan of the different oils and when exactly is the best time to change to a fully synth.
Tossing up Honda FEO or Motul 4100 for the 1000km and 5000km change. Haven't decided when to go fully synth yet but I have my eye on the Motul 300V or the 8100 at the moment!
aaronng
12-06-2006, 11:15 PM
Hmm... don't most people think 2000km is too soon for a fully synthetic?
It's a pity nobody's done a 1000 car trial with the different type of oils yet. It would be interesting to compare in a controlled environment the performance/lifespan of the different oils and when exactly is the best time to change to a fully synth.
Tossing up Honda FEO or Motul 4100 for the 1000km and 5000km change. Haven't decided when to go fully synth yet but I have my eye on the Motul 300V or the 8100 at the moment!
I put in synthetic when my car had 15000km.
I'd put FEO for 1000km, and then Motul 4100 for the 5000km. Why are you changing at 5000km though? Isn't it 10000km?
EuroDude
12-06-2006, 11:28 PM
The dealer probably told him to get it serviced at 5000km to suck money out of him.
tanalasta
12-06-2006, 11:48 PM
Nah. I do a fair few short trips. And I don't trust the Honda FEO stuff to last 10000km. :p
EuroDude
13-06-2006, 12:07 AM
Well my dealer wants me to get it serviced at 5000km, and I'm like wtf I'll stick with Honda's 10,000km interval thanks.
aaronng
13-06-2006, 12:34 AM
How much is an oil change in WA? Here in sydney it's about $250 at the dealer's. I bring my own oil so it's $200. I only change it at the dealers because so far they've been happy to sort out any problems that I had.
EuroDude
13-06-2006, 01:00 AM
What $250 just for a ten minute oil change? Serious?
aaronng
13-06-2006, 01:22 AM
Haven't you serviced yours yet EuroDude? Dealers charge too much here. I can change it myself, but I reckon spend $200, and get them to change anything that I complain about. I just got a new glovebox last week because mine was "warped"
hahahha
EuroDude
13-06-2006, 09:44 AM
I got the first 1000km service but honda pay for the labour, so I have yet to pay for dealer labour until the 10,000km service.
Although I may change the oil myself at 5000km for peace of mind (plus there is nothing wrong with the car) - the car is still being run in to a certain extent. Who knows whats in the oil lol
aaronng
13-06-2006, 12:33 PM
I got the first 1000km service but honda pay for the labour, so I have yet to pay for dealer labour until the 10,000km service.
Although I may change the oil myself at 5000km for peace of mind (plus there is nothing wrong with the car) - the car is still being run in to a certain extent. Who knows whats in the oil lol
:thumbsup: Regular oil changes are gooood!
Spec83
13-06-2006, 04:40 PM
Why do you guys change so often....? Its a waste of $$ and time unless your trackdayin-it every weekend???
EuroDude
13-06-2006, 06:39 PM
Mineral oil starts to break down after 5000km so its best to change it to keep the engine in good shape and keep up engine performance. Decent Synthetic oil can last 10,000km though, so you have a choice of Mineral $30/5000km or Synth $60/10000km.
Well thats what i've gathered from various sources... :)
aaronng
13-06-2006, 08:41 PM
Castrol Magnatec mineral oil only lasted 7000km for me. Suddenly it became rough. You could feel the difference. Now I use either Castrol Formula R(Edge) 5w-30 (cheap) or 0w-40 (expensive) depending on how rich I feel. LOL
Spec83
14-06-2006, 04:15 PM
I am still unconvinced as to the merits at changing oil ever 5000kms - i dont know what u guys are doing to your cars to get the oil to "break down" as you all say...
Might have to look into the 5w-30 edge and change at 15k and see if i notice any difference
EuroDude
14-06-2006, 06:39 PM
Besides the fact Mineral oil breaks down, many ppl change the oil every 5000km simply because it gets dirty over time and because engine performance suffers the longer you leave old oil in there.
With my Civic at 200,000km+, it felt like it regained 20kw when I changed the oil after 10,000km. (using Mobil Synth-S)
aaronng
14-06-2006, 07:56 PM
If you do mostly short trips (less than 5 minutes) where your oil temperature does not get a chance to reach 100ºC, there will be some buildup of moisture in the engine oil. Then, our petrol has a teensy weensy bit of sulfur in it. When combusted, it produces SO3. When SO3 mixes with water, you get H2SO4, which is sulfuric acid. It's only a low concentration but you know what happens when aluminium mixes with even weak acids. So for those people, it is actually recommended to follow the "severe" service schedule and change their oil more often.
EuroDude
25-06-2006, 06:40 PM
Well my car has done 6000km and I changed the oil today with Honda FEO - my gawd the engine performs great now. So even with new cars, the 5000km oil changes are quite significant performance wise.
shailesh
11-07-2007, 04:25 PM
I got my 10K service done today at John Blair Honda (Melb).
Was going to buy & give them FEO but they said they could do this (use FEO) instead of their usual (Castrol Magnatec).
Engine seems quite and slightly free (but could also be the placebo effect)...
LT178
11-07-2007, 05:10 PM
Hmm... don't most people think 2000km is too soon for a fully synthetic?
It's a pity nobody's done a 1000 car trial with the different type of oils yet. It would be interesting to compare in a controlled environment the performance/lifespan of the different oils and when exactly is the best time to change to a fully synth.
Tossing up Honda FEO or Motul 4100 for the 1000km and 5000km change. Haven't decided when to go fully synth yet but I have my eye on the Motul 300V or the 8100 at the moment!
I've used fully synthetic ever since my 1000k service.......don't think its really that bad for the car. I've almost done 40k km with no probs (touch wood!) ;)
tknova
12-07-2007, 07:13 AM
I use Castrol Formula R 0-40w @ 10k service. Works well for winter and summer! I Like too keep the engine using the same weight oil everytime. I don't think it's a good idea to change weights often.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.2 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.