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  1. #1
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    Installing DC2R Manifold on B16A1 (info)

    Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!


    Aim:
    To install a DC2R Manifold onto a b16A1 engine (EF8, EF9 etc)

    Required:
    Your usual tools.
    Grinder with cutting disc

    DC2R Manifold
    Throttlebody with a FITV on it (vtir etc etc)
    DC2R or equivalent fuel rail.
    DC2R or equivalent IACV
    DC2R Throttle cable bracket.
    Intake gasket
    Throttlebody gasket
    Various size vacuum hose and water lines.


    Steps:

    OK, i have had quite a few people PM me about installing a DC2R manifold onto a B16A1. Unfortunately they are not a direct replacement for the b16a1 manifold.

    The b16a1 manifold has a spot for a FITV (controls cold idle, if you dont have it, when engine is cold it wont idle high to warm up) where as the DC2R manifold does not. The sizes/config of the DC2R and B16a1 IACV's (another idle controlled connected to the ecu) are different, the fuel rails can cause some trouble and where parts of the rail hit other objects and a DC2R throttle cable bracket is needed.

    (steps might not be in the smartest order, i am going off the top of my head so just use them as a guide)
    1) I recommend draining your radiator fluid into a bucket.

    2) Disconnect battery so there are no sparks etc

    3) Remove the intake pipes

    4) Release fuel pressure (check a workshop manual for this)

    5) Unplug the injector harness from the loom

    6) Unbolt the plastic injector hardness surround from the fuel rail and pull out all the clips off the injectors (they have metal clips u need to push apart to pull them off the injectors)

    7) Move the harness off the manifold and out of the way

    8) Disconnect the fuel lines to the rail and to the FPR

    9) Disconnect all the water line hoses to the manifold and to the FITV, except the one to the IACV

    10) Remove the injectors and fuel rail.. keep your injectors clean

    11) Loosen and remove the throttle cable and move it to the side

    12) Remove all the vacuum lines to the manifold

    13) Undo the IACV at the back of the manifold and leave it to dangle

    14) Now you should be able to undo all the nuts from the manifold. There are 10 going to the head, remove the in a criss cross pattern, You will need a spanner for some, and a ratchet with a medium length extension to get to some in the bottom.

    15) There are also 2 Bolts hold the manifold, underneath the manifold.. they connect to a bracket that goes to the block. Undo these, you will most likely need to go under the car, but it may be possible without doing so.

    You should now be able to remove the manifold and jiggle it out.

    Now installation of the DC2R manifold is pretty much the opposite or the same to removal. Just use all the parts I have listed, the final setup should be:
    • DC2R manifold
    • Throttlebody with a FITV
    • DC2R fuel rails (or similar)
    • DC2R IACV (or similar)
    • b16a1 injectors
    • b16a1 FPR
    *You may also need to use certain studs from the b16a1 manifold if your dc2r is bare. You wont need the fuel rails spacers for this setup, DC2R does not use any spacers like the b16a1 does between the manifold and the fuel rail

    The thing is, modifications need to be made to the manifold before installation. Check this pic:


    The manifold @ the top is the B16A1 manifold, the one at the bottom is the DC2R manifold. You can see that where the bracket joins the manifold, the DC2R goes lower than the b16a1. Therefore the bracket pushes the manifold up.. and the dc2r manifold wont seat against the head correct.

    WHAT YOU NEED TO DO IS grind/cut off around 3mm of the bottom of the manifold where it meets the bracket, so that it doesnt get pushed upward.
    The bracket holes for the bolts wont line up to the DC2R correctly, i have done some basic research and many people say that they dont even use the bracket with the manifold, so not using the bracket seems fine.


    In regards to water line setup
    what i did was have the line that came from the manifold goto the FITV, and from the fitv have the line goto the iacv, and the iacv will join the original line to the engine. There should be 2 lines left over near the thermostat area, i just used 1 line connecting the two nipples together.

    Other tips:
    I recommend putting some bluetac into the socket when doing up the nuts for the manifold that are tricky so they dont fall and get lost in the engine.

    Connect the line to the iacv before you install the manifold and let it dangle, and connect once the manifold is done. Makes it easier.

    You will also need to block off a nipple at the back of the manifold. Hose and a screw method is the most common.


    Other comments
    There are various revisions of DC2R manifolds so it may differ. Install was done on my 1990 ef8 crx sir


  2. #2
    damn how come there no replies in here. great post man. +rep.

    do you reckon its ok to run the manifold without the bracket?? i haven't taken mine off yet to feel how heavy it is but i think it'd be ok without it.

    also, what did you do with the lines that go to the OEM evap system for the b16a. theres a vac line that goes to the canister and a fuel line that goes back to the manifold near the TB.

    what did you end up doin??

    I'm askin cause i wanna remove the system. cheers.

  3. #3
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    the article must have only just got approved recently..

    I did research, and many people say they run their manifold without a bracket.. i have had no problems as of yet.
    Some people even remove the bracket all together, but it does secure the black box for the pcv, so i kept it.

    i dont know about the b16a2 system..
    but with b16a1 the cannister has one line going to the firewall and one line going to the nipple on the throttle body..

    there was also a FPR solenoid setup on the firewall that had a vacuum line going to it, and the from it a line went to the FPR.. from the workshop manual this item doesnt seem to be a crucial aspect of the car (ie, there are no engine lights associated with it).. so i just removed it and directly connected the FPR to the manifold like the newer B series setups


    this info is for b16a1, so maybe with b16a2 there might not be a need to mod the dc2r manifold
    Last edited by Dxs; 07-09-2007 at 02:50 PM.


  4. #4
    possibly.

    I'm just wondering how to block the holes on the manifold left over by the system. There will be one vac line from the rear of the manifold and one from the top of the throttle body (possibly vac as well cause it looks like it goes in after the butterfly)

    i just need someone to confirm really.

  5. #5
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    late reply
    u can get plugs for rad coolant.. which are like a hose with a closed end.. hard to find small ones though

    or u can get a nipple to put in the hose and like glue the hole with araldite to seal it

    or put a screw in one side of the hose going to the nipple on the mani


  6. #6
    Account Disabled Array
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    Sep 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    CT9A
    Yes you can run it without the bracket. No biggy.

    As forthe black box, its hold on by 1 bolt to the block.

    Should be a straight forward conversion if you get a complete ITR manifold.

  7. #7
    Member Array
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    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    180sx , DA9 sir
    thumb up !!! very useful information +1

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