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  1. #1
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    South West
    Car:
    GD3 VTIS

    DIY: Spark Plug Change!

    Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!


    Aim: To change Spark Plugs


    Required:
    1. New Spark plugs to suit your engine
    2. Sparkplug tool
    3. Feeler Guage
    4. Screwdriver


    Steps:

    1.
    First thing is to check what spark plugs you need. look under you bonnet for this sticker.



    2. Go to repco, supercheap ect and ask them for your type of plug, buy them ect....


    3. come home, pop the bonnet and pull the spark plug leads out of the holes:



    3. Undo the spark plugs with the spark plug tool (counter clock wise) (No pic)

    4. look at your old crappy plugs compared to your nice new ones!!



    5. Now gap your new plugs, use the feeler gauge to check the gap, if it isnt the right gap, bend the little prong with a screw driver:



    6. Put the new plugs in, tighten them up (Clockwise), but not too tight, about a turn once its got resistance.

    7. put the leads back in, push them down fairly hard, then your done...start her up!!:



    Other comments

    This was done on my EG Si, other engines may have a bigger/smaller gap. Check under your bonnet or in a manual to check for your specific engine!
    WTB: [SYD] Cheap Gen 2 CRX (or shell)

  2. #2
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Nice writeup!

    You might want to apply some dielectric grease on the ceramic part so that that leads do not bind to the plug over time. If you find that it was difficult to unscrew thhe plug out of the head, then consider applying some non-metallic anti-sieze compound on the threads.

    And, if you purchase iridium plugs, you CANNOT gap them. The electrodes are about the thickness of a mechanical pencil lead! Instead the part number specifies the plug gap in it. Example, for NGK iridiums with part number IZFR6K11, the "11" signifies that it has a 1.1mm gap. Denso iridiums are the same as well, SKJ20DR-M11 where the "11" denotes 1.1mm gap. You could say that these plugs are "pre-gapped". I recently purchased regular copper NGKs and they came gapped to 1.1mm as well (based on the "11" part number that I specified when purchasing).
    Last edited by aaronng; 27-08-2006 at 01:40 AM.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  3. #3
    id definately put antiseize on the thread of the spark plug.. just in case u may strip the thread of the head... and that would b costlhy....

  4. #4
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Poo-goat 307
    i dont suppose you have any pics of those spark plugs in bed?

  5. #5
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Car:
    Gen 5 Prelude
    what's with da gloves? were you scared of getting dirty?

  6. #6
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    South West
    Car:
    GD3 VTIS
    meh, i was oil changing at the same time, and as used oil is bad to get on your skin, i was wearing gloves
    WTB: [SYD] Cheap Gen 2 CRX (or shell)

  7. #7
    Green block gangster Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Car:
    twin GX160's
    nice DIY dude

    good work.

  8. #8
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Car:
    Gen 5 Prelude
    Quote Originally Posted by heist
    meh, i was oil changing at the same time, and as used oil is bad to get on your skin, i was wearing gloves
    Fair enuf... i'll withdraw my comment

  9. #9
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by heist
    meh, i was oil changing at the same time, and as used oil is bad to get on your skin, i was wearing gloves


    Used oil is carcinogenic.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  10. #10
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Dee Why, Sydney
    Car:
    '88 B16A ED9CRX
    That means cancer causing

  11. #11
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    South West
    Car:
    GD3 VTIS
    thats the word i was looking for, i couldnt think of it, so i wrote bad for the skin...lol
    WTB: [SYD] Cheap Gen 2 CRX (or shell)

  12. #12
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Australia
    Car:
    EM1, JAZZ, ITR, EURO
    Nice write-up !!

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